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According to a survey on exhibitors in the Business Textile Zone in regard to what are the popular fabrics in their booths, the popularity concentrated on fabrics that are thin, light and soft.
Fabrics that possess body were well received. Lightweight fabrics that possess body are preferred because the trend is toward a silhouette that does not cling to the body.
Favorite expressions (after-treatments) are translucent, natural looking (wrinkles), shrunken, uneven appearance and micro-powder touch. Oily or wet sticky luster is also well accepted, along with coatings. In the background of such trends is the popular use of combining yarns of different counts, jacquard weaving for producing surface effect and lace. Prints and yarn-dyeds are also gaining popularity. The materials are wide ranging including blends, and more exhibitors are showing eco textiles such as organic cotton and recycled synthetic fibers.
In order to increase the rate of orders amid the current severe economic environment, there are an increasing number of companies that are endeavoring to reduce costs for psychologically expressing a good buy, and meet demands for small lots, quick deliveries, etc. Shuttle looms are attracting attention as these looms can weave delicate yarn such as linen. |
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During JFW-JC, visitors were requested to participate in a survey. (Thank you very much for your cooperation) One of the questions is: “Which booths are you interested in?” Some of the booths that are said to be interesting in the survey are introduced as follows.
[Company Introduction]
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Orihime Co., Ltd. A-19
Orihime uses only Japanese-made organic cotton yarn. The cotton has to be cultivated on land on which no pesticides, chemical fertilizers and weed killers have been used for more than three years, and no chemicals are also utilized in the spinning and weaving stages. Similarly, the organic wool has to be from sheep grown on grassland that has not been treated with chemicals for more than three years. The company has commercialized products made from these materials, and is exhibiting mufflers and shawls for which OEM production is possible. A variation of colors is available. All of the products have not been dyed so that the color of the product becomes deeper or darker when dipped in hot water. These products are friendly to people as well as to Earth.
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Marumasu Co., Ltd. A-16
All processes from pretreatment to dyeing, printing and finishing, are performed within the company. Since the plant is located in metropolitan Tokyo, Marumasu has been taking environmental measures including wastewater treatment since before 2000. This year, the company is attaching importance to two types of low impact printing, a printing technology that reduces the burden on the environment. One is to suppress environmental burden by limiting the use of dyestuff and chemicals. The other is nano pigment printing, a new technology that reduced processing stages by using new pigments, and clear fine lines can be drawn. Both limit substances restricted in Oeko Tex Standard 100, and especially for nano pigment printing, materials that contain no restricted substances are used.
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Monde Co., Ltd. E-20
Specializing in knits, Monde produces fancy yarns in special shapes, which can be used for embroidery, lace and woven fabrics. A large number of yarn and knitted fabric samples are available at all time, but sales by order account for a greater share. It is a well-balanced company in all aspects, such as having a planning strength that can meet various needs, an abundant amount of yarn and fabrics in stock, sales force and equipment for production. Spark nylon was a hit item for the fall/winter season, and a modified silk is rising for the spring/summer season. |
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t’acca Inc. E-30
Using mainly natural fibers such as cotton, linen and wool, t’acca produces fabrics that are not affected by fashion. Being very particular about the material, the company uses Belgian linen for its spring/summer collection, and voluminous Shetland wool and a soft lightweight type of Peruvian highland wool for the fall/winter season. Its high-density cotton fabrics continue to be popular among many of its customers. Women’s wear accounts for the majority, but men’s wear is also gaining a greater share. Class-type fabrics are recently highly popular. |
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Morikiku Co., Ltd. E-13
Morikiku produces and sells on its own risk gray fabrics, yarn-dyeds and fabrics processed with a special salt shrinking treatment centering on cotton, linen and cotton/linen blends. Popular fabrics for spring/summer 2010 are light and translucent, such as lightweight voile, 80-count-class lawn and 80-count-class jacquards. The variation of checks on organic cotton fabrics is also well received. Fabrics that are selling regardless of the season are Japanese pattern prints and Mikawa stripes, which are also one of the characteristics of Morikiku fabrics. New fabrics come in lighter weights and surface effects such as waffle processing.
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Sankei Co., Ltd. B-15
Sankei is a total supplier covering all apparel auxiliary articles from linings and interlinings to labels. Items that remain popular from the fall/winter season are leather-like nylon buttons and buffalo skin-like polyester buttons. For the spring/summer season, the company is presenting small buttons such as lame-containing epoxy resin and casting. Particularly popular are “Eco Parts” eco-friendly auxiliary materials. “Eco Parts” are composed of the 4 groups of organic materials, recycled materials, biodegradable materials and the elimination of hazardous materials. All eco-friendly auxiliary materials are now available from the company.
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Shozan Inc. C-22
Shozan manufactures personalized printed fabrics and products on an OEM basis. For the last several years, OEM production had been its main business, but this time, it is placing special emphasis on prints since the company was originally a textile maker in Kyoto. Fabrics that are soft and have a blurred watercolor effect are being presented, and greater importance is placed on the sense of art and originality than on fashion aspects. Even for OEM business, Shozan exhibits originality by proposing the coordination of sundry goods and apparel. |
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Charmant Co., Ltd. E-12
Charmant undertakes the planning and manufacturing of embroidery and lace fabrics for an extensive range of applications from apparel to interior and fashion goods and sundries. Charmant lace (American lace) is manufactured on an old machine, the only one remaining in Japan. The embroidery lace has a three-dimensional appearance created only by professional skill. Embroidery on paper and vinyl is another feature. Embroidery laces on natural fiber base cloths and having a rough appearance such as polka dots and large pattern checks are highly popular this time.
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Nihon Homespun Co., Ltd. E-44
- Light Linen Tweeds With 3D Effects -
Nihon Homespun manufactures tweed fabrics combining wool and silk with various materials such as cotton, linen, leather and man-made fibers. Its tweeds are highly appreciated among brands inside and outside Japan. Sales are by order. The company is presenting a tweed fabric that is made with linen for light weight and features a 3-dimensional silhouette.
In reflection of the severe economical environment, there is a move to avoid homogenous products. At JFW-JC, a number of buyers say, “It’s no use to only select fabrics that are already prepared.” Tweeds are more eye-catching than prints, and sophistication is difficult with the same pattern. By using original methods and techniques from the yarn making stage, Nihon Homespun tweeds are produced specially for each customer, and are said to be the most suitable material for avoiding homogenous products. |
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The Dyeing Creation Village is a new event that is intended for promoting collaboration among companies mainly in the dyeing and processing sector. The products on exhibit in the booths are a culmination of original technologies, which surprised many visitors. One visitor says, “I could not only see, but also feel and know more about the various technologies.” Another visitor says, “I was able to recognize again the depth of technology.” A third visitor says, “I felt how extensive the range of processing technology is.”
Exhibitors also gave high ratings. An exhibitor says, “We have a chance of having a collaboration thanks to the Business Interchange Meet on the first day.” Another exhibitor says, “We received an order for an estimate from a textile company.”
Some of the companies participating in the Dyeing Creation Village are planning to participate in the dyeing and processing collaboration at the 3rd Japan Tex-Promotion Form Presentation, an industry-academy cooperative event.
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At the Forum on April 9th, Mr. Hirofumi Kurino, Senior Creative Advisor at United Arrows Ltd., gave a lecture on the process of finding direction in social trends, giving the company’s business activities for the spring/summer 2009 season as an example.
This direction was disclosed within the company in November last year, and the general theme was “Strange Folk: a Soft Revolution.” Consumers enjoyed spending in the 1980s, and major companies took up street trends in their business strategy in the 1990s. The era has changed from the free-spending days of the 1980s and 1990s. As a result of the subprime loan problems last year, 2009 is a year when new standards can be established. Encouraged by the word “Change” of U.S. President Obama, Mr. Kurino predicts that a “soft revolution” will occur.
Mr. Kurino says, “It is more important to make people happy than to excel in performance or being prominent and standing out.” Low-priced fast fashion is only cheap with no respect to quality, and people don’t care about appreciating goods and soon get tired of wearing them. Meanwhile, there are also fashions in which time is taken to develop the products and consumers can enjoy wearing them for over a long period of time. Although it is not confined to fashions, the most important thing is linking it to the happiness of consumers and customers.
The Japanese people have the spirit of “mottainai” (unwastefulness) and value “kaizen” (improvement) and “kawaii” (sweet or cute). Kawaii is now a global word; it may be contradictory to individualism or the thought that everyone should become an adult in Europe, but the idea that it is no problem to have a mind of a young girl may bring healing or recovery. The fact that Japan has many traditional processing techniques such as persimmon dyeing can be said to be opposite to fast fashion. Mr. Kurino says, “Everyone should have confidence in the culture and invisible spirit of their own nation.” |
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The Improvement of Presentation Ability Is Important
In the Forum on April 10th, textile designer Kanako Kajiwara gave a lecture on the theme “Textile Creation in Fashion Business”.
She started her lecture by saying, “The market has drastically changed from 10 years ago, and is full of goods. So, we are at a loss as we don’t know what to make.” Ecology and saving are keywords, and Ms Kajiwara indicates that consumers have interest in raw materials, not only in foods, and even for apparel, shoppers tend to be selecting products after confirming the material.
Japanese fabrics are highly appraised for their unique perspective and high quality, but there are people who say their presentation ability and understanding of trends such as color lag behind global standard. She emphasizes the importance of improving presentation ability. In contrast to overseas companies with integrated production systems, Japanese firms team up to cooperate in manufacturing; therefore, fabrics produced in a combination of processing stages are said to be superior, and seen as an effective way of possessing competitiveness.
In working as a textile creative director in various Japanese textile production districts, Ms Kajiwara began to take overseas markets into view. “Fashion business is valued differently in Japan and Europe. Overseas, importance is attached to individuality and sensibility in the manufacturing of products with the trend being well understood. Accordingly, the buyers know what is demanded when they select fabrics, and it is important that the presentation achieves results that always exceed the buyer’s expectations, as if touching the hearts of buyers. Ms Kajiwara says, “The importance of setting the top line and diffusion line is increasing, but setting these lines is still insufficient in Japanese textile production districts.”
In regard to textile business in the future, overvalue is in demand, and so Ms Kajiwara proposes, “Value addition through function, software and team force is important.” She also points out that there is a gap between the production districts and fashion designers, and people who can bridge this gap are needed. |
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Business Interchange Meet at Creator’s Village
A Business Interchange Meet was held in the Creator’s Village (CV) from 18:10 on April 9th. Since it is the first time that CV is being held in JFW-JC, creators participating in CV and JFW-JC exhibitors were slightly passive, and conversations lacked an upsurge. Accordingly, a CV creator said that if this event is to be continued next time, a coordinator would be necessary to act as a go-between. On the other hand, a number of firms have come to have a sound and steady interchange. One participant says, “Participating in JFW-JC has brought many fun surprises. I was able to immediately find a company which can perform a processing that I though was difficult, and find fabrics that I never have thought of before.” Another participant says, “I could feel the network and possibilities become more extensive. For instance, one of my business partners came together with a retailer.” |
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Mr. Seishin Matsui, Designer at Sise
Mr. Matsui has visited JFW-JC every time since he was a student. Initially, the designer was interested only in the articles on display, but since he began to work, he has been looking carefully at the fabrics and processing. This time, he is particularly interested in the dyeing system at Marumasu Co., Ltd., and how it would be nice to incorporate this environment-friendly dyeing system into the print series of the Sise brand. The patterns of its print series are all original. From the previous collection, Sise has also been presenting original fabrics. Since the garments are not decorative in terms of form, Sise is planning to add more originality, and it also wants to seek partners. Since such operations have just started, what is more of a concern at exhibitions like JFW-JC is how to undertake business smoothly. Therefore, there might be interest in a certain fabric at certain booth, but the designer is sometimes hesitant to enter the booth as he knows nothing about the booth. Mr. Matsui is still in the process of learning.
Mr. Sachio Kawasaki
- Wishing a More Open Exhibition Space -
Mr. Sachio Kawasaki, a designer at Sachio Kawasaki, is visiting JFW-JC for the second time. JFW-JC is an important event to visit as fabrics from many textile production districts can be seen in one location.
Since a lot of satin-like fabrics were used for the fall/winter 2009 season, Mr. Kawasaki is considering using fabrics that have a crispy hand and body despite being of lightweight for the spring/summer 2010. At JFW-JC, Mr. Kawasaki starts from one end of the hall and visits all of the booths.
There are so many companies exhibiting a large number of fascinating fabrics and beautiful samples, so it is difficult to select the fabrics. It would also be preferable if the exhibition had more space in between to make it easier to view.
I didn’t know anything about the eco labels. If possible, it would be easier to choose if there is an eco booth full of eco textiles. |
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JFW Japan Creation Autumn/Winter 2010
October 7 (Wed.) to 9 (Fri.), 2009
Tokyo Big Sight, West Hall 1, 2 |
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