JFW-JC 2010 A/W Special Part4 October 9(Fri), 2009
 
JFW-JC News 10/6[tue] JFW-JC News 10/7[wed] JFW-JC News 10/8[thu] JFW-JC News 10/9[fri] JFW-JC News top
  JFW-JC2010AW  Popular Fabrics  New Hands: Convex & Concave, Voluminous Feeling, Hard Touch
  photo_JFW-JC2010AW Popular Fabrics New Hands: Convex & Concave, Voluminous Feeling, Hard Touch
 

According to a survey on popular fabric trends among exhibitors in the Business Textile Zone, while the popularity of soft lightweight materials remains strong, new keywords are convex and concave, voluminous feeling, hard touch, warm feeling and roughness. The popularity is still high for fabrics with moderate luster, a used touch, double-weave texture, double face, jacquard and high-density construction.
The interest is high for surface interest such as convex and concave, and popular fabrics include those with fine wrinkles, boucle, light airy tape embroidery, slub, flocky, embossing, frills, beads prints, cutting, pattern embossing, lace and other form-finishing techniques.
The most significant change this season is from a light feeling to a slightly heavy touch. The texture goes in the two extreme directions of simple and dense.

As for well-received bulky fabrics, soft airy materials that have a cushioned feeling are highly appreciated among some participants. Slightly raised fabrics are also in trend, and a raised fabric of 100 percent linen is available.
  Popular colors are deep multi-layers, gradations and color neps. Other favorites include lame and foil, lustrous finishing, coating and denim tones. Animal patterns are a topic in print motifs.
Other opinions include: “Compared with the 2009 A/W season, many inquiries have been received for wool fabrics, and thus the hopes are high in wool textile production districts.” “Colors are black and white, and low-cost processing is in greater demand.” “Lightness is demanded from the yarn stage.” “Spangles are in demand from the first place.” “There are functional fabrics using collagen (amino acid peptide collagen blended fibers).” “Visiting apparel manufacturers say that they want to undertake merchandising in a personalized way.” “Machine-washable furs are well favored.” “The use of polyester fiberfill in place of goose down is very popular.”


  PAGE TOP

  Eco Textiles “Eco” Expands Steadily
 
photo_Plant dyeing by Fuji Chigira Co., Ltd.
The Eco-Textile Corner was set up in reflection of recent concerns about the global environment. Eco labeling is a classification in four colors (green, blue, brown and black). From the current JFW-JC, the brown label is recognized as “material manufactured based on a socially traceable standard.” According to participants in the Eco-Textile Corner, organic cotton continues to attract attention, and the range of eco textiles is more extensive, from plant dyeing in which production is integrated from plant cultivation to dyeing (Fuji Chigira Co., Ltd.) and Laotian cotton (Offa).

  PAGE TOP

  Collaboration Among Creators, Traders & Designers Realized in JFW Events
 
photo_SACHIO KAWASAKI From the fashion show for the 1st Shinmai Creator’s Project

The designer collaboration at JFW-JC and brand designers in Piggy’s Special have been selected from among maisons participating in Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo, and similarly companies in the Creator Village were selected from among participants in the JFW International Fashion Fair (JFW-IFF).
In the Shinmai Creator’s Project, as part of the support activities for participating designers, outstanding Japanese fabrics are introduced at JFW-JC to support textile procurement at the exhibition. A press conference for the Shinmai Creator’s Project was held on October 7th at the JFW-JC forum hall.
In regard to collaboration with the New Designer Fashion Grand Prix, participation in the Designer Collaboration is promoted, and fabrics selected for the New Designer Selection from among the Best of TA-KU-MI will be made into garments by the new designers and exhibited in the fashion show at next spring’s JFW Tokyo Collection Week.
In order to realize collaboration among creators, traders and designers, cooperation is increasing first from among JFW participants.


  PAGE TOP

  JFW Shinmai Creator’s Project  Interviews With Designers
  A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT
Mr.Yu Amatsu

“Participants to Collaborate in Textile Developments”
Mr.Amatsu used to have a basic concept of producing collections mainly of real clothes, but has changed to “look at fabrics without any particular image,” and moved around the hall at JFW-JC.
Observing first from orthodox fabrics and then more toward sophisticated materials, Amatsu had a deep impression about three-dimensional fabrics and voluminous materials. He found an interesting piece of fabric that was processed to have a convex and concave feel at the Hisayama Dyeing Shop. He then went to the nearby booth of Smile Cotton together with a staff member of Hisayama as he found a fabric that had a good touch, and they talked for a while and discussed about making new fabrics together.
The participants are mutually buyers, and it is hard to start collaboration proposals on the spot in negotiations at overseas exhibitions, but JFW-JC is different. Let’s look forward to what great works they will present next year.

photo_A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT Mr.Yu Amatsu
photo_A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT Mr.Yu Amatsu

  AKANE UTSUNOMIYA
Ms.Akane Utsunomiya

“The Selection of Personalized Fabrics”
Ms.Akane Utsunomiya is a specialist in knits. She walked around the hall, mainly checking knitting yarns, with a hope of “finding personalized materials for making simple and interesting designs.”
Having no experience in producing jackets and coats, this time, she plans to try making these items with voluminous knitted fabrics. Her ideas include a combination of knit and stretch materials.
She showed great interest in fabrics from Sato Textile, which are characterized by their very fine and airy yarns and light materials. The image of her collection became firm as soon as she saw the fabrics.

photo_AKANE UTSUNOMIYA
photo_AKANE UTSUNOMIYA

  FABIOLA ARIAS
Ms.Fabiola Arias

“Surprised at Super Organdy”
Recently graduating from school, Ms.Fabiola Arias has never been to a major textile exhibition, but compared with the American market, she thinks that Japan seems to be full of sophisticated textiles, and had this thought at JFW-JC. What was particularly interesting for her was a very thin organdy that did not look like a fabric. Its transparency was the first experience for her. Unfortunately, she could not order the fabric due to the small minimum lot. Ms Arias thought that the Japanese technology that can produce such a thin fabric is really quite superb.
Ms.Arias often makes collaged items from plain fabrics, and so is more interested in the quality of the material rather than the processing. She placed orders for cotton plain weaves and denim at JFW-JC as she had an image of making something that combines thick fabrics with organdy or chiffon, such as a collaged cocktail dress.

photo_FABIOLA ARIAS
photo_FABIOLA ARIAS

  THE INDIVIDUALIST(S), A Label by Luise&Franck
Ms.Louise Schwarze and Mr.Franck Pouchoulin

“Very Novel Tradition and Techniques”
Several years ago, Ms.Louise Schwarze and Mr.Franck Pouchoulin first came to know about Japanese textiles at Premiere Vision, and have been using Japanese fabrics for three seasons. At present, 70 percent of their works are made from Japanese fabrics. The most attractive point of Japanese textiles is the harmony of tradition and new techniques. The quality is high and creative, and Japanese fabrics made from the latest technology are indispensable for them. Their works are mainly made from natural cotton, wool and linen materials. Japanese textiles are made with high after-treatment technology, and they say that Japanese materials are just excellent.
This is their first time to JFW-JC, but compared to Premiere Vision, where you have to rush around the huge exhibition area if you want to see everything, they could take their time to look around the booths carefully, and they think that JFW-FC is a fair based on a human standpoint.

photo_THE INDIVIDUALIST(S), A Label by Luise&Franck
photo_THE INDIVIDUALIST(S), A Label by Luise&Franck photo_THE INDIVIDUALIST(S), A Label by Luise&Franck

  PAGE TOP

  JFW-JC Forum“What Is Required for Brands in the Future”
 
photo_JFW-JC Forum “What Is Required for Brands in the Future”

Ms.Yoko Kawashima, Marketing Manager, Itochu Fashion System Co., Ltd., analyzes that in a broad sense, fashion is a realistic expression of trends in “street, shop and people” in the earliest stage, and proposes to continuously cultivate this point of view from the stand point of users and a wide range of vision. The essential elements for brands are “meaning”, “consistency” and “technique + design + conveyance”. Ms.Kawashima says, “However excellent the products may be, they are useless unless the meaning is transmitted to people.”


  PAGE TOP

  JFW-JC Forum “What Is Luxury Now”
 
photo_JFW-JC Forum “What Is Luxury Now”

Ms.Akiko Fukai, Chief Curator, the Kyoto Costume Institute (KCI), indicates a decline of luxury brands due to the recent popularity of fast fashion, and analyzes by saying, “Luxury is not absolute, but relative.” She stresses, “It’s a permanent desire for people.” The form of luxury in modern fashion is “manifestation, tranquil revelation and an expression that has a meaning for oneself.”
She mentioned about the changes in luxury brands, and explains, “Since the 1990s when Paris Collections began to be widely televised in France, luxury brands have been covered by mass media. Fashion information became a part of the mass market, and it has led to the promotion of fast fashion.”
Fast fashion is a major topic, but she warns, “Fashion is varied, and there is no guarantee that low-priced goods will continue to be the one and only winner.” In order for luxury goods to be accepted in spite of differentiation from fast fashion, she explains that luxury is not absolute, and should be evaluated in relation to age and society. Luxury recently exists in the affluence of the mind.
KCI will host the “Desire of Luxury Fashion” at the Tokyo Metropolitan Modern Museum from October 31st to January 17th, 2010.


  PAGE TOP

  JFW-JC Forum  “The World Looks at ‘Japan Quality’ Jeans”
 
photo_JFW-JC Forum  “The World Looks at ‘Japan Quality’ Jeans”

In the morning session of JFW-JC Forum on October 9th, Mr.Michikazu Kobayashi, Executive Director, Edwin Co., Ltd., presented a lecture on “The World Looks at ‘Japan Quality’ Jeans”.
Japan is renowned for many things including jeans all over the world. Crafted with pride, Japan quality must be appealed directly to consumers, and now is the right time. Mr.Kobayashi explained specifically by presenting practical examples in the manufacturing process of Japanese-made jeans.
The history of jeans in Japan dates back to the post-war days when used jeans were imported from the United States. Of course, the jeans were washed carefully. Before the pre-shrinking process was developed, jeans used to shrink 5-6 inches after washing. For this reason, the pattern had to be designed by assuming the shape after washing. Development was undertaken by repeating trials and errors. Even the names were printed so that the color may fade ideally when washed repeatedly. What is different from overseas jeans is that Japanese jeans are made from the beginning so that they maintain an ideal used appearance when washed repeatedly. Such an attitude toward manufacturing with a definite pride has led to Japan Quality. According to Mr.Kobayashi, washing, processing and sewing are also considered parts of design in the manufacturing process.


  PAGE TOP

  JFW-JC Forum “Creating Trend Waves”
 
photo_JFW-JC Forum “Creating Trend Waves”

Mr.Sadahiro Nakamura, President & CEO, Transit General Office Inc., gave a lecture on “Creating Trend Waves” from 14:00 on October 9th. The company is known for planning and producing cafes and restaurants such as a cafe called “Sign”, catering business, hotel business, etc., based on the concept of “imaging a place for playing and having contents in fashion, music, design, art and eating. The business style of Transit is that an emphasis is placed on marketing that attaches importance to booms and styles. From his own experience and activities that go beyond the barriers of nation, age and trade, he stresses the following to create trend waves, “It is important to make a big torrent by joining small waves beyond industries. Not limited to personal ideas, you must listen to the ideas of other companies, cooperate with mass media, and expand the network.” He further adds, “The concept, contents for realizing this and appropriate casting are all indispensable.”


  PAGE TOP

  Interview
 
photo_Ms.Yuma Koshino, Designer

YUMA KOSHINO
Ms.Yuma Koshino, Designer

Ms.Yuma Koshino had been away from JFW-JC for several years, since childbirth. She originally had few expectations this time, but the show was actually better than her expectations. The Trend & Index was attractive and full of presentations. The fabrics of participating companies were formerly good as a “textile collection” but were not usable. However, the materials here have something new with reality, and possess the global scale of fabrics from Europe. The energy and confidence of manufacturers having the spirit of aggressively producing and marketing could be felt, and Ms.Koshino expressed her surprise and satisfaction. JFW-JC is exciting and stimulating for a designer like her. She said that in these days of severe competition, participants should cooperate with one another.

  PAGE TOP

  PIGGY’S SPECIAL Pigskin Fashion Show
 
photo_PIGGY’S SPECIAL Pigskin Fashion Show

Piggy’s Special Student Show

Continuing after the Piggy’s Special on October 7th, the Pigskin Fashion Show is being held today by students from eleven fashion schools in Tokyo. The show is fun to see every time as the designs are rich in variation, and ranges from costumes based on the ideas of students to wild and elegant feminine expressions, the trendy taste of the 1980s and garments that well feature the drape and body of soft pigskin.

  PAGE TOP

  Tex-Promotion  Form Presentation Has a Higher Degree of Perfection
 
photo_Tadao Takeuchi, Chairman, Committee for Collaboration Between Industry and Academy
photo_Tex-Promotion  Form Presentation Has a Higher Degree of Perfection

Tadao Takeuchi, Chairman, Committee for Collaboration Between Industry and Academy

Last year’s collaboration was excellent, but this year’s appears to have a considerably higher degree of perfection. In such a short period of manufacturing, students worked very hard. Since the outcome is not known until the works are actually displayed at the exhibition site, the concerns are great, but the results are excellent. Indeed, these are works by selected students. Last year, the works were generally thick and dark. This year, many of the articles are light, bright, and shining. The students seem to understand the change of era by sense.

Winners of the Form Presentation will be announced on November 4th, at the Academic-Industrial Collaboration exchange meeting at Tepia in Aoyama, Tokyo.

  PAGE TOP

  Company  Profiles of Exhibitors
 
photo_Tango Textile Industrial Association/Tango Fashion Week Executive Committee


Tango Textile Industrial Association/Tango Fashion Week Executive
Committee (Promotion Zone C-01)

Tango Takumi Group
Exhibiting in the same way as last year, the Tango Textile Industrial Association/Tango Fashion Week Executive Committee has a fair-in-fair style of booth this year, in which 16 firms are participating. Exhibitors consist of 8 Western apparel manufacturers, 7 Japanese apparel makers and one processing company. The catch copy is “Material Adventure = Seekers of Materials = Tango Takumi Group”.
Although the recession is casting a dark shadow over the industry, all of the participants first want many visitors to see and touch their newly developed products. A wide variety of fabrics are on exhibit. For instance, Oe Co. is offering a silk denim “UR@CMA”, which is produced in collaboration with another production district; this denim is produced with an integrated production system that includes dyeing, weaving and processing in Kojima, Okayama Prefecture. Daizen Co. is offering a water-repellant, soil-resistant processing for eco textiles, which uses no formalin, resins or organic solvents.


 
photo_Foundation for Promotion of Local Industry Southern Tochigi

Foundation for Promotion of Local Industry Southern Tochigi
Ashikaga District (Booth No. B-56, 57, 58, 63, 64, 65, 66 & 67)
At JFW-JC, the Ashikaga District is displaying in 8 booths and 10 units, including the Foundation for Promotion of Local Industry Southern Tochigi, together with 4 firms and 3 associations. Ashikaga is located close to apparel manufacturers in Tokyo, and is famous for textiles, knits, prints, dyeing, Torchon lace, embroidery and apparel manufacturing. Particularly in the sector of Torchon lace, Ashikaga boasts a domestic share of more than 80 percent, and it is a major characteristic of the district.
The Tochigi Torchon Lace Association produces accessory lace using various special techniques. The Tochigi-Prefecture Dyeing Manufacturing Co-Operative Society dyes and prints fabrics and products made from all types of fibers, as well as various types of films. The Sano Sewing Co-operative excels in sportswear for kindergarten kids and kindergarten and school entrance ceremony suits and uniforms. The group includes Asahi Senshoku Co., Ltd., which offers brands of genuine prints that incorporate trendy elements. Tsurugai Printing Industry Corp. is known for its persimmon dyeing, charcoal dyeing and plant dyeing, as well as for printing and processing techniques. Koike Keihen Senkousyo carries out non-chemical processing that leaves no chemicals on the fibers. Inokoshi Orimono Co., Ltd. offers original gobelins fabrics suitable for the production of various items in small quantities.


 
photo_Japan Silk & Rayon Weaver’s Association

 

Japan Silk & Rayon Weaver’s Association (Promotion Zone C-20)
Participants: 43 Firms & Organizations From Six Production Districts
At JFW-JC, the Japan Silk & Rayon Weaver’s Association is participating with fair-in-fair style of booth in order to increase synergy. From six districts producing silk and man-made fabrics (Fukushima, Kiryu, Hachioji, Fukui, Komatsu and Nishijin), a total of 43 firms and organizations are participating.
Companies that produce mainly fabrics for Japanese garments, such as Nishijin, are participating, and a Japanese taste is favorably accepted as something novel in sectors such as interior goods. In the past, many of the firms exhibited just white silk fabrics, but this time silk fabrics are being offered in more colors.

 
photo_Hayashiyo

 

Hayashiyo (Business Textile Zone F-05)
Linen Denim
Hayashiyo Co., Ltd. is developing linen fabrics that can be used throughout the year, and introduces a 100 percent linen denim at JFW-JC. The denim is made with a 25-count yarn. Although the fabric is made of linen, the high-density construction makes it hard to wrinkle. Light in weight, the fabric is dyed in middle white, so color fading similar to cotton denim can be enjoyed.
In addition, Hayashiyo offers mufflers made from organic linen and yarn-dyed handkerchiefs made with fine-count Irish linen. The company plans to develop about 100 new patterns for handkerchiefs in the next three years.

 
photo_Mutsumi Textile

Mutsumi Textile (Business Textile Zone E-51)
High-Gauge Jersey Gains Popularity
Mutsumi Textile Co., Ltd. is a manufacturer of compact high-gauge filament jersey. Materials are triacetate, diacetate, polyester, etc. The company is manufacturing new jersey fabrics being particular about everything from yarn processing to gauges, and the fabrics come in a wide variety ranging from plain dyes to jacquards.
The company says that at JFW-JC, lightweight compact high-gauge types are popular.


 
photo_Moririn

Moririn (Promotion Zone B-31)
Reputed for Its Original Global Expressions
Moririn Co., Ltd. is supported widely by designer brands because of the original global expression of its fabrics. Orders are accepted from one roll of fabric. Each production process including spinning, twisting, weaving, dyeing and finishing is mutually connected, and the company can flexibly respond to delivery time.
Many garment samples are being displayed at JFW-JC so that visitors can easily understand its presentation of fabrics, which include a jersey fabric that is coated to have a look similar to leather, ore-dyed real leather and animal-free padded knitwear using polyester fiberfill.


 
photo_Sato Seni

Sato Seni (Promotion Zone B-26)
Introduction of Original Knitting Yarns
Sato Seni Co., Ltd. introduces various original knitting yarns such as kasuri and mohair, and is receiving inquiries from many companies outside the flat knitting industry. Applicable to small lots, the dyed yarns listed in the sample book can be purchased from a minimum unit of 1 kilogram.
At JFW-JC, the most preferred yarns are "Masde Vallia” 100 percent wool high-twisted yarn, “Lantana” kid mohair gradation kasuri with partial Slavonic pattern and “Ishikari” 100 percent wool kasuri yarn. “Masde Vallia” is not like wool, and its touch is crisp. Three-dimensional fabric expressions are also possible.The over-the-counter sales period is long.


 
photo_Shima Seiki

Shima Seiki (Promotion Zone D-02)
Demonstration of Made-to-Order WholeGarment System
Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. is demonstrating made-to-order production for WholeGarment, and visitors were astonished to see the completion of a garment in only 50 minutes. This business model was developed in collaboration with Wajima Kosan, a specialist in made-to-order knitwear.
A customer first selects the design, material and color from about 30 samples, and then wears a sample for measurement. The data is input into a computer, and the garment is made on a WholeGarment machine.
Made-to-order knitwear is already being sold by the Takashimaya Department Store Group. Only a design system is installed in the store, and the garment is manufactured at Shima Seiki’s factory. The delivery time is about 2 weeks.
The materials are mainly cashmere and silk, and the price ranges from 30,000 yen to 80,000 yen; the main price zone is about 40,000 yen.


 
photo_Kasamori

Kasamori (Promotion Zone D-33)
Accessories Are Well Received
Lace-manufacturer Kasamori Co., Ltd. is presenting accessories made from Kasamori lace, which gained high reputation even at Paris shows. It is said that in Paris, many buyers including the accessory specialists of luxury brands picked up its lace accessories.
Since convex and concave materials are a recent trend, Kasamori is introducing various lace textile items in addition to accessories in its booth.


 
photo_Tsuboyoshi Orimono

Tsuboyoshi Orimono (Promotion Zone C-20)
Pleats-Like Dobby Fabrics
At JFW-JC, Tsuboyoshi Orimono Co., Ltd. is participating in the booth of the Japan Silk & Rayon Weavers’ Association. The company is famous for its original fabrics including shape memory-type materials, and the main attraction this time is a dobby fabric that looks as if it has hand-made pleats.
Because it is a dobby fabric, it is less costly than genuine hand-pleated materials. Many visitors asked whether it is difficult to sew this fabric, and the company says it is not a problem for factories that are capable of sewing pleated fabrics. In addition to jackets, samples of skirts combined with genuine pleats are also on display.


 
photo_Textile & Fashion Resource Ishikawa

 

Textile & Fashion Resource Ishikawa (Business Textile Zone E-66)

In the Ishikawa Textile Production District Exhibition, fifteen leading companies in Ishikawa Prefecture are participating. Exhibitors consist of eight textile manufactures, five converters and two dyehouses, and original products are being exhibited. Except for the second day when the exhibition was hit by a typhoon, business negotiations are vigorous, and at several of the booths, products full of originality and development power are attracting attention. The response is favorable; together with obtaining new customers, direct communication with users will have a positive impact on product development.

  PAGE TOP

  Take a Break at jc (jay-cee)
 
photo_Take a Break at jc (jay-cee)

Experiencing indigo dyeing

At JFW-JC, visitors are able to enjoy indigo dyeing at a corner of Jeanism Japan Quality. It takes only about 20 minutes, and many of the visitors who experienced indigo dyeing say that it’s great fun.
At the corner, visitors tie-dye a handkerchief. A white handkerchief is first folded; it is almost always at this point that the pattern is determined. The tied portion is not dyed through, and after tying it with thread, the handkerchief is placed in the dyeing bath, dipped and stirred. By rubbing it repeatedly, the color deepens. The handkerchief is then taken out of the dyeing bath and washed in water, and your own handkerchief of original design is completed. Visitors say that it is fun to learn and receive things at JFW-JC.


  PAGE TOP

  Next JFW-JC
 

JFW Japan Creation 2011 Spring/Summer

April 21st (Wed.) to 23rd (Fri.), 2010
Tokyo Big Sight, West Hall

◇Application for participation is welcomed.
http://www.japancreation.com/2011ss/boshu.html


  PAGE TOP


JFW-JC News 10/6[tue] JFW-JC News 10/7[wed] JFW-JC News 10/8[thu] JFW-JC News 10/9[fri] JFW-JC News top

プライバシーポリシー